Welcome to my first blog post!
I found that instagram character limitation wouldn’t work for this type of content so I resorted to my little corner of the internet to bring you a review of three different free underwear patterns.
Something that I want to do this year is to sew more practical items of clothings. I’ve sewn pretty much every type of garment and at this point it feels really weird to buy clothes, even if it’s just a pair of undies. And so I began my quest to find my favorite underwear pattern.
Underwear is obviously very personal so I’ll tell you right away what I look for in it: I want it to be a bit highwaisted and high cut at the legs. When it comes to the back, I personally don’t really like thongs and I also don’t like for it to be too big, so a Brazilian cut would be what the internet tells me what I like is called.
Now, when it comes to my body shape, my waist and hips aren’t very proportionate according to size guides (my waist is 64 cm and my hips 97 cm) so I knew that when working with lower rise undies, I would have to go by my hip measurement and completely ignore the waist. And when working with something highwaisted I would probably need to consider my waist measurement.
I browsed through the magical place that is Pinterest and found some patterns. I wanted to try out different types of fit so here are the ones I’ll show you today:
- Evie La luve – Maxine panties: these are high waisted undies with a lower cut. Available in sizes XXS to XXL.
- Paper theory – Stevie Knickers: medium rise undies with a lower cut and full coverage in the back. Available in sizes 6 to 20.
- Ohhh Lulu – Celeste Bikini: low rise with a medium cut at the legs. Available in sizes XS to XXL.
Something that you have to keep in mind when I tell you what size I’ve chosen is that this will vary depending on the fabric you’re working with. Something with more stretchability will make the sizing less worrisome. I tried the patterns in a few different types of fabric which were a cotton jersey with 8% elastane, a modal which had very little stretch to it, a cotton rib knit with 60% stretch and finally a cotton jersey with the same characteristics as the modal.
EVIE LA LUVE – MAXINE PANTIES
I chose a size XXS and I made them in the cotton jersey with 8% elastane. If I were to make them in either the modal or the cotton jersey with minimal stretch I would have gone for the XS size and taken it in at the waist more.
The instructions on this one are cristal clear but undies tend to be all constructed the same way. The only thing that usually varies is if it’s a singular gusset piece or double. These ones are double gusset and I found that the burrito technique was very well explained so if that’s something you’ve never tried fear not because there won’t be any questions with these.
The instructions also explain how to finish these with both a fold over elastic and a knicker elastic. Personally I prefer the lather just because I feel like I haven’t mastered the application of fold over elastic. I do prefer the look of it.
I made mine using the elastic free technique (very well explained by @betterhaldhandmade in this video) and it worked perfect with the rib knit fabric.
So, everything is pretty much perfect about this pattern. What I don’t like about it is a matter of personal fitting preference and it’s how low cut they are in the legs. But they are really confortable and very well drafted.
OHHH LULU – CELESTE BIKINI
These are quite low rise so I went for the size that better matched my hip measurement which is the size Medium. I used the cotton with 8% elastane and they fit pretty much perfectly.
These were definitely my favorite in terms of fit. The back as a little less coverage and although they’re pretty low waist I found them very flattering on my body shape as they didn’t cut me as much in the legs. I found that these were the ones that didn’t accentuate my hip hips as much.
The thing I like the least on these ones are the fact that they’re constructed with a single gusset which I find looks a little more cheap in terms of construction. The double gusset is a better finish in my opinion but this is something that you can easily alter in the pattern if it bother you aswell.
The instructions on these ones explain you how to finish them with a lace trim. I would have gladly made them like that but I didn’t have that sort of material on hand so I went with a fold over elastic which works perfectly as well.
On the undies above I used this exact pattern and just did the elastic free method to add a bit of height to them.
Once you make a few undies you realize that all the finish methods are pretty much interchangeable and you can just use the pattern as a shape guide, the rest is up to you. You migh need to change seam allowances but other than that, the basic shape is what matters.
PAPER THEORY – STEVIE KNICKERS
At first I cut a size 6 and made them in the modal fabric but as is doesn’t have much stretch I found them to be too tight. I ended up making a size 8 which fit me perfectly. The ones on the picture above are a size 8 aswell but they’re made in the cotton jersey with 8% elastane.
Instruction wise, there’s both a blog post and a video explaining how to construct them and they’re both very easy to follow. Something that was helpful was the measurements provided for elastic for each size. So if you want to know how much elastic to cut for the waist or leg holes for your specific size that information is provided. This will obviously depend on the type of elastic you’re using but it’s a great starting point specially if you’re using exactly the materials the pattern calls for.
Something that I really like about these undies is how confortable they are. I personally don’t find them the most flattering on myself but they are soooo confortable and they’ll for sure become my period undies.
I don’t find that they look great on me due to the low cut at the legs and also because the back is quite big but they’re the type of underwear that has a time and a place in my life.
So, my conclusion on the best free underwear pattern that I’ve tried is that underwear is very personal and these are all great. Through all this journey to find the best one I ended up creating one as well because I couldn’t find anything quite as high cut as I like. Or they were either for thongs or briefs which isn’t the shape I prefer to see on my bottom.
I ended up drafting a pattern for a highwaisted pair of undies that are high cut and with a Brazilian fit in the back. And, as I drafted them for myself I thought I’d grade it and put it out for free for you folks to give it a go as well!
I hope you like the Peachy Undies and if you give them a go don’t forget to tag me @coolstitches because I’d love to see them 🙂
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